5th May 2024

Having grown up and spent the best part of my life in Jersey it seems crazy to me that I never knew about the rock climbing that was literally on my door step until my mid twenties.

Living on an island, my days as a child and teenager were inevitably filled with exploring the miles of pristine coastline that Jersey hosts. As a teenager I would spend every opportunity surfing with my mates and on hot summer days we would explore the cliffs, rock jumping (or as it is now known, coasteering) and scrambling around the headlands in wetsuits looking for jumps. I never considered rock climbing as a sport or never thought of it being in Jersey, come to think about it I don’t think I really knew about climbing at all.

In my early 20s I had started doing a lot of hiking in more mountainous terrain as a flat day activity when on surf trips in places such as Indonesia, Central America and Australia. This new found love for hiking quickly progressed to exploring steeper terrain and the more adventurous past time of rock climbing despite having a slight fear of heights.

I moved from the island permanently in 2016 to North Wales for various reasons. Island claustrophobia, prices and the need to explore were all driving forces in the search for a place to live that was bigger than 9 x 5 miles. However the one thing that drove me away the most was the desire to climb. The desire to be around climbers, mountains and people who are living and breathing that life, so after visiting Llanberis to do my ML award and meeting some really great people I made a very spur of the moment decision to move there. Not quite Chamonix but it was in the UK, easy to get to from Jersey and had a good vibe about it from the one time I visited. I soon immersed myself into the climbing scene and love it and have been living in Llanberis ever since.

When I moved away from Jersey I knew there was climbing on the island and had done some but I was of the assumption that there wasn’t much of a scene or much climbing of worth in there. This was a naive and foolish thought to have made. I now know what a plethora of climbing Jersey has and what I hear, is a healthy, active and supportive climbing scene.

Jersey’s rock is as good as any on the mainland, reminiscent of that in Cornwall. It is mostly granite but there is also a few crags of gabbro. The climbing from my experience and in my opinion takes some getting used to. Flared cracks, sharp crystals that nuts like to get stuck on, extremely tidal, sea spray, nesting birds and very little beta on UKC makes it an exciting, adventurous and rewarding place to climb.

God Oh God Give Me Another Scotch you Bastard E1 5b (Photo Eleanor Lister)

All crags in Jersey are directly on the coast with a handful that are non tidal. There is crags facing all aspects. However the majority of crags are west facing which is good for summer climbing as well as being fast drying with the prevailing winds being westerlies. Climbing is possible all year round. I have climbed throughout the year even in the depth of winter on the smaller south facing crags on the south of the island.

The grade range is great in Jersey. It ranges from Mod’s to E8’s and the quality is high across the board. There is climbing there for everyone. If you have a fear of heights and like your 6 meter micro routes there are plenty. If multi pitch sea cliff climbing is your thing, you’re in luck.

Since moving to Wales I have had the joy of climbing in Jersey as much as I can when visiting family and friends. I’m always excited to climb there and spend hours looking at the guide book searching for the routes I want to get on. There are so many to choose from that I find it overwhelming at times. I have spent many days when it’s not climbable or a partner is not to be found scrambling around the cliffs, mind climbing the routes, figuring out where I want to go next time and seeing what looks good.

When I have climbed, it has been super.

At the time of writing I have just returned from a quick visit and although I didn’t climb any of the routes I had in mind due to nesting birds, wind and sea spray wetting the crags, I had an amazing time climbing and did some really quality routes some of which I will talk about below.

The North West Passage. VS 4C . 3 pitches

What a route! I saw it in the guide book and thought is this Jersey’s answer to ‘A Dream of white horses’? I would say yes. Although the climbing is soft for the grade and there are no real hard moves at all, the exposure of the climb is outrageous and really exposed proving a full on experience for any climber no matter what grade they have on their CV. I will happily admit that I felt the exposure as I crept around the corner on the second pitch and it wasn’t until I saw the mega jugs that it settled down in me.

I wouldn’t say this is a route for new VS climbers and a good head for heights and exposure is required. I would also say it’s important to be super confident with your rope work with double ropes in order to eliminate the high chances of rope drag due to the nature of the route. As with any climbing it’s important to also be clear with how you will communicate with your partner. This route traverses and goes around corners making it very difficult if not impossible to hear your partner not to mention having the sea smashing against the rocks bellow and wind blowing over head to contend with.

Stepping round the corner on the mega exposed pitch of The Northwest passage

Gental Retainer. HVS 5a. 2 pitches

I had seen this route for many years and thought I would give this 3 star classic a crack. Situated at a non tidal crag it is easily accessible.

A feisty little route on perfect golden Jersey granite that is steep and sustained.

It starts with a delicate and bold slab before it is all go in a crack system that is well protected (and sharp) all on good holds but still requires some thought on how to climb it. There is then a cheeky little traverse out left on sloping holds to a large ledge below the second pitch which is a short steep headwall. You can also traverse out left to finish off up a HS called the Wrinkled Stopper which is also a nice little route on this crag.

A question of Balance. E2 6a. 1 Pitch (at a push)

This is located on a small crag known as trespass point which consists of a two tiered crag both of which are around 10 meters. I had climbed here in previous years in my early days of climbing as it has a large amount of lower grade routes. The routes are very short but you can link the two tiers together which makes for an alright sized route. The rock here is brilliant. Solid, sharp and beautiful looking in a stunning location on the south coast. The walk down through potato fields gives a view that I would imagine to be in north California with the conifer trees on the cliffs and crystal clear blue waters.

The route itself is more of a highball problem that is fairly well protected on solid rock. Crimping on small holds through the crux requires as the name suggests, good balance.

Gin and Tonic. Severe 4a. 1 Pitch

A classic at the grade and for the crag. I had done this years ago and loved it. It is a fairly steep and pushy start for the grade but its on massive holds through a short corner. It then moves up through lovely round granite features on much easier ground that ends too soon. It would be great if it was longer.

I only ever get short windows in which to climb when I return to Jersey. Although I have now climbed in many of the areas on the island there are so many routes and crags that I am yet to climb on. Routes I have done in the past that I have great memories of and recommend include:

Recommendations

Jersey Girl E2 5C

Situated at Rouge Nez a tidal crag on the west coast, it is surrounded by a whole host of magic lines from Diff to E5. It climbs classic granite flashed cracks to a good rest then a delicate and bold step left then into more juggy ground to finish off. An absolute joy to climb, and well protected.

Brian Cain following me up Jersey Girl back in 2021

Perihelion HVS 5a

Described as one of the best routes on the island and I would agree. It climbs a beautiful line up the side of Rabbits head starting up a steep corner on ofter slippery ground then onto the face itself up a crack system on much easier ground to climb and gives you the opportunity to enjoy the stunning scenery and surroundings. This would be a classic at any crag and is honestly one of the best HVS routes I have done anywhere in the UK.

Dangle Angle VS 4c

An absolute classic and my first VS many years ago. Although short it has a lot to it. Starting off below a steep overhang you move up this on powerful and super fun mega holds. You then take a rest and follow a weakness to the top via a slab. So fun!

Ground Zero HVS 5a

A great route in two halves. It is situated in the stunning Beauport bay above turquoise clear waters that screams tropical. It climbs the face of the obvious pinnacle seen from the beach. The climbing is good and ends with an off width so take a big cam if you want it protected.

Beauport bay - on an overcast day with the pinnacle in the back ground

Bum Monster Meets Smelly Armpit E3 5c

Another short route albiet beautiful climbing and if you like slate style routes then this will surely please. Perhaps soft for the grade if this is your gig but it is still fairly bold and small gear is required. The adjacent routes are similar and worth climbing too.

The Heist E2 5b

A great route on a non tidal sector easily reached from Gronez car park. It climbs the right hand side of the slab wall via some thin and tech moves on small gear. The rock in this area is again great with rounded crystallised golden granite features everywhere.

Logistics

Jersey is super easy to get to from many airports across the UK such as Liverpool, Manchester, Glasgow, Gatwick, Southhampton, Newcastle, Edinburgh, Bristol and Birmingham to name a few. You can also take the car ferry from Poole or Portsmouth.

Once on the island it is extremely easy to navigate around. If you have a hire car then nowhere is anymore than 40 minutes drive away. You could also take bus’s to many of the crags but the services to the north west are limited but the southern crags are more easily reached this way.

Cycling is also an option with bike rental companies in St Helier and E bikes easily arranged as well as the common yellow EVie bikes like those found in cities across the globe.

Accommodation

This is not something I am hot on as I always stay with my parents. But there are many options for staying in Jersey. Unfortunately it’s not the cheapest place to stay. You can find good deals but with peak climbing season being peak tourist season I would imagine prices reflect that but I have seen places in St Helier for as little as £50 a night (if you are lucky) . Airbnb seem to be similar.

Camping is an option and there a few campsites dotted around from around £20 a night. https://www.jersey.com/places-to-stay/budget-friendly/

Jersey also has some really unique and quirky accommodations available from the national trust ranging from former battery and guardhouses to staying on an island castle. Check out https://www.jersey.com/places-to-stay/historic-places-to-stay/ for more ideas.

Van camping is unfortunately now a no go for the past few years. This was the highlight of my youth in Jersey sleeping beach side every weekend and waking up and going surfing so it saddens me that it is now policed and vans are moved on if found parked in obvious spots.

Wet day, rest day and other activities.

Although Jersey is the sunniest place in the British Isles it is still in Northern Europe and gets similar weather. When it is unfairly raining because the gods do not want us to climb there are many amazing, fun and interesting things to keep you busy.

Jersey has a rich history from Neolithic sights around 6000 years old, castles that are over 800 years and the stories of occupied times during WW2. You can take walking tours to a Conway tower a mile offshore at spring lows, visit the famous Jerry Zoo prised for its work with endangered species or take a rip ride to one of the outer reefs known as Les Ecréhous in the middle of France and Jersey.

Jersey’s beaches are some of the most beautiful beaches I have seen around the globe. I am not exaggerating. Golden sands cleaned daily with the third biggest tidal movement in the world make for the perfect relaxing day of swimming, exploring on a sea kayak, SUP or via coasteering.

When the surf is up it also has some great beach breaks at St Ouens bay. There are many board and wetsuit hire companies along the beach. Make sure you ask the RNLI for the best places or locals as the rips are vicious as well as huge tidal movement that will drag you hundreds of meters across the beach.

Best time to go:

As mentioned you can climb all year but the safest bet will always be summer, but spring and autumn can be equally as good. The beauty of it is you can go last minute if you are flexible and find a deal (if you’re a genuine climber you know you want a deal).

Summers can be hot but often not too bad (again it’s Northen Europe) . Being a tiny island there is often a breeze in the middle of the sea so it can keep it pretty good for climbing as well as being able to find shady crags always such as Nethe Falise on the north west.

Get in touch if you want to know more about the island, it’s climbing or are interested in some guided days there.

Jersey - Gem of the sea

Butel Mountaineering